The Atlas

When your stomach is unsettled

You ate something, or you ate too much, or you ate too fast, and now it is sitting there. Nothing dramatic. Just heavy and wrong. Every food culture on earth has an answer to this, and the answers turn out to be remarkably closely related.

What almost everyone agrees on

  • An aromatic seed, chewed or steeped
  • Something sour or fermented
  • Warmth — and never anything cold, in most of these traditions
  • A bitter note, taken before eating rather than after

12 kitchens

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Read in the order the sun finds them — west to east, following the numbers.

from Morocco

Atay bi na'na

a-TAY bee NAA-naa

Ingredients for Atay bi na'na

You need

  • Green tea
  • A generous bunch of fresh mint
  • Sugar

Brewed strong, poured from a height, drunk after every meal.

Digestive and hospitable in the same gesture — you are unlikely to be offered one without the other.

Sweet and intensely minty.

from Italy

Amaro

You need

  • A bitter herbal liqueur — gentian, wormwood, citrus peel

A small glass after a heavy meal.

Bitter, taken after eating, to help a large meal along. An entire commercial category built on a principle Ayurveda calls deepana and Bengal calls shukto.

Bitter, sweet, herbal, warming.

from Iran

Nabat

نباتna-BAAT

You need

  • Saffron rock candy
  • Hot water

Stir a stick of it into hot water until it dissolves.

The Iranian answer to a bad stomach, and present on almost every Iranian table.

Sweet and gently floral from the saffron.

from India & the Levant

Saunf / yansoon

सौंफ · يانسون

You need

  • Fennel seeds, or anise

A pinch chewed after a meal. In the Levant, anise is steeped instead and given to babies for colic.

The after-meal seed, in two traditions, from one plant family.

Sweet and liquorice-like. Fennel is milder; anise is more insistent.

from India

CCF tea

You need

  • A teaspoon each of cumin, coriander and fennel seed
  • Hot water

Simmer the seeds for five minutes, strain, sip warm. Drunk between meals rather than with them.

Three seeds that kindle digestion without heating you up — the everyday Ayurvedic answer to heaviness.

Mild, savoury, faintly sweet from the fennel. Much pleasanter than it sounds.

from India

Chaas

छाछchaas

You need

  • Yogurt
  • Water
  • Roasted cumin
  • Black salt
  • Fresh coriander

Whisk one part yogurt to three parts water, season, drink at the end of a heavy meal.

Buttermilk is considered lighter than the yogurt it comes from, and easier on a labouring stomach.

Salty, sour, cooling. Somewhere between a drink and a thin soup.

from Indonesia

Jamu kunyit asam

JAH-moo KOON-yit AH-sam

You need

  • Fresh turmeric
  • Tamarind
  • Palm sugar
  • Water

Boil the grated turmeric with tamarind pulp and palm sugar, strain, drink warm or chilled.

The most widely drunk jamu in Indonesia — for digestion, for period pain, and simply as a daily habit.

Earthy, sour, sweet all at once. Stains everything it touches.

from China

Chen pi

陳皮chen pee

You need

  • Aged tangerine peel
  • Hot water

Steep a piece in hot water for ten minutes. The peel is deliberately aged — older is more prized.

For bloating and fullness. Chinese medicine treats aged citrus peel as something that moves stuck qi downward.

Bitter orange, deep and slightly smoky. Nothing like fresh peel.

from China

Shan zha

山楂shahn jah

You need

  • Dried hawthorn berries
  • Hot water

Simmered into a tart tea, or eaten as sweetened slices.

Specifically for what Chinese medicine calls food stagnation — the heavy, greasy meal that has not moved on. It is reached for after meat and oil in particular.

Sharply sour, like a dried crab apple.

from Korea

Maesil-cha

매실차MEH-shil cha

You need

  • Green plum syrup
  • Warm or cold water

A spoonful of the syrup in water. Kept in the fridge in most Korean homes.

The Korean digestive — drunk after eating, and given for a queasy stomach.

Sweet and sour and very clean. Excellent cold in summer.

from Japan

Ume-sho-bancha

梅醤番茶OO-meh SHO ban-cha

You need

  • An umeboshi plum
  • A few drops of shoyu
  • Hot bancha tea

Mash the plum in the cup, add the shoyu, pour the tea over it.

The Japanese all-purpose restorative — for an upset stomach, for fatigue, and for the morning after.

Salty, sour, savoury. Closer to a broth than a tea, and strangely steadying.

from Japan

Daikon oroshi

You need

  • Grated raw daikon

Grated fresh and eaten alongside oily food, not after it.

Raw daikon is considered to help heavy, fried food move. This is why a mound of it arrives beside tempura — the remedy is served with the problem.

Peppery and clean, like a mild radish, which it is.

Now look at them together

Fennel. Anise. Cumin. Caraway. Dill. Ajwain. Coriander. Every one of those belongs to the same botanical family — Apiaceae — and cultures on four continents, with no contact between them, each reached into that one family and pulled out a seed for the stomach. India took cumin, coriander and ajwain. The Middle East took anise. Europe took caraway, fennel and dill. Mexico took cumin too. Nobody coordinated this. The plants were simply asked, everywhere, and they gave the same answer.

Please see someone if

  • There is severe or sudden abdominal pain
  • You are vomiting blood, or something that looks like coffee grounds
  • Your stools are black or tarry, or there is blood
  • You are losing weight without meaning to
  • Swallowing has become difficult
  • Symptoms keep coming back over weeks, or you are over 50 and this is new

None of the above is medical advice. These are household preparations, described as the households that make them describe them. They sit alongside medical care and never in place of it.

Also in the Atlas

With warmth, from a great many kitchens.